Perfect for lazy Sunday mornings

I'm loving getting up to brighter (and often sunnier!) mornings. But as I still relish a sleep in on the weekend a sleeping mask can be very handy, so I decided to create a prettier one-, modeled here by my kind boyfriend. Once you try these you will be completely won over and it's a very simple project indeed!


So you need thread, elastic, fabrics for the back and front of your mask (so it's reversible), thin padding for the middle ( I used thin wool fabric) and your shape cut out on paper. Baking paper is a handy substitute for pattern paper.
To draw out your sleeping mask shape make sure its symmetrical by folding it down the center and cutting it out that way. You can find further shapes on google images- 'sleeping mask pattern'.


Lay down your fabrics and elastic-
Firstly your 2 fabrics with the print/correct sides facing in on themselves.
Inside your patterned fabrics is your elastic. For the length place it around the back of your head, reaching from one temple to the other and add a couple cms. You want it snug but not tight. So it's inside your fabrics with the ends poking out each side
Then on the bottom the wool fabric/padding.

Now trace around your mask shape. You can do this in pencil as you won't see it.
Keep in mind that if the printed fabrics are stripes or a geometric design that you have them laid out correctly.


Now a simple running stitch on the machine along the pencil line, taking the pins out before you reach them. Go nice and slowly around the curves, and leave a gap at the top or side of about 4 cm/3 finger width.


Now trim around your sewn shape, leaving about a cm of fabric remaining.


This is the back of the mask, with the wool fabric/padding. In case the fabric buckles a little later make some cuts ,through all the layers, at the tight curve where the nose will be. But don't get too close to the stitches!


Now turn your mask inside out! Little fiddly. Then iron it, also neatly ironing the unstitched edges in preparation for hand stitching.


Choose thread that blends in with your fabric, knot the end and insert it up under the fabric so the knot is hidden. You are now going to stitch neat diagonal tacking stitches the whole way along the gap. This is the same hand stitch as used in the make bunting project.


Keep the stitches nice and small! And try to hide the knot at the end. You can always push it between the fabrics with the head of a pin. Remember you can also leave your gap along one of the sides.


One of the fabrics I used was a print of my own, and this was fabric left over from altering a skirt. Enjoy your Sunday sleep ins and naps!

Extraordinarily Easy Bunting

I have fallen for bunting totally and utterly. It just has so many uses! Outdoors, indoors, celebrations, brightening a room.. We use some lovely bunting when we run our textile workshops, but I decided to do a very very easy make post for bunting for those of you who are, so far, sewing machine less. And I can use it to brighten up my lovely studio!


This is when you get to reward yourself for keeping (hoarding!) all those scraps of fabric. Using them up is so satisfying! Your fabrics don't need to match, just make sure you like how they all look together. You can use plain fabrics, printed or a mixture of both. If you are using only plain fabrics be sure to use a playful mix of colors.


Using bias binding is the first great tip. You can get it in any good haberdashery. Wonderful word 'haberdashery'. Be sure to buy a color that works with your fabrics and the right length that you want. I bought 2 and half metres for this project.Now you need to fold the width in half while ironing it, keeping all the edges on the inside. The binding I bought happened to have some linen in it so I could fold it by hand first before ironing. This isn't a must.


Make a template out of paper or card as a guide for your fabric triangles. Be sure that when you fold it in half the 2 sides are the same. Make the most of your fabric and make one tip longer, this will be the end that hangs down.


Once you have drawn around your bunting, with a light pencil or tailors chalk its time for tip number 2. Crimping scissors! They create a lovely zigzag edge that is very pretty and doesn't fray. They are more expensive than normal scissors but they are well worth it.
However cut the top of your triangles with a straight edge, as they will be inside the binding and a straight edge will be easier to catch when stitching.


At this point place your first triangle inside your folded binding to check that your triangle is a size you like, a good check before you cut out the rest of your triangles.


Remember to make the most of your fabric, place your triangles side by side and as close to each other as possible.


Very satisfying cutting with crimping scissors.


Lots of lovely triangles. I got slightly excited and cut too many, but these can be used for my next strand of bunting!


Decide on the order of your fabric triangles and how much space you would like between them. Be sure that it is the same between each one. Place each triangle right up inside the binding and pin it down with a couple of pins. It's lovely deciding on the order of your fabrics. I loved using this bicycle print of mine, next to fabric left over from Laura Ashley curtains.


Now for the hand stitching if you are sewing machineless. Choose thread that matches your binding, knot the end and insert it up into the binding so the knot is hidden.


You are now going to stitch neat diagonal tacking stitches the whole way along the binding, (it's up to whether to do the strands at the beginning and end of the binding) . This stage you need to do while chatting or watching a film so it doesn't become tedious. You can relax but still be productive. And you will have some fabulous bunting as a result! Do use it for a celebration of any kind!

Pretty Edge

It had been years since I had learned crochet and produced a rather awful scarf. Recently one of my students asked me to show her some crochet skills and once I had reminded myself of them it opened up a whole world of tasteful crochet possibilities! This is edging or border is a lovely simple project, that shows you how just a few crochet stitches can be effective, and tasteful!

This is your pattern for this edging-
Foundation chain of the required length-count your stitches, and make sure the chain is a multiple of 6 stitches +1
Row 1-1 chain,1 double double crochet in each stitch, turn
Row 2-1 chain *miss 2 stitches, 5 treble crochet in next double crochet, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch, rep from * to end.
Fasten off.

I know that sounds complicated, but I promise its very simple! There's only 3 crochet stitches involved-chain, double crochet and triple crochet. Use your pattern as a reference. Before you undertake a project make a small sample piece, for practice and to make sure it looks as you expected.


These are 2 versions of how to do a slip knot- the very first stitch on your hook!


How to hold your yarn and hook! Tension is important- not to tight and not too loose. This will take practice.


To create your foundation chain you catch the yarn and bring it all the way through the loop on your hook. Pass your hook under and around the yarn to catch it. The hook comes towards you at the start of the movement.


This is your foundation chain. Don't forget to keep count! The first slip knot doesn't count as a stitch.


If you haven't done so already be sure to measure the area you want to trim. I'm going to edge the empire line of this linen dress. There are a host of possibilities- cuffs, hems even creating very impressive ribbons for wrapping gifts.


This the double crochet stitch. Once you have created a foundation chain of the required length (multiple of 6 +1). Turn at the end, add one chain stitch (your turning stitch) and go back along it working the double crochet into each stitch.


Working the double crochet along..


Finished row 1!


Now for the treble crochet! Be sure to practice this one a bit first.


Follow the pattern guide for row 2- 1 chain *miss 2 stitches, 5 treble crochet in next double crochet, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in next stitch, rep from * to end.


Coming along nicely!


To finish cut your yarn and pull it through the last loop! Now it just needs to be sewn on. I attached it to the garment with small diagonal tacking stitches the same color as the yarn. All very simple and immensely satisfying! Now I just have to finish that dress..

Spring Time Embroidered Cushion Cover

This Make project is featured in the latest issue of Image Interiors, but I wanted to also share it with your lovely selves!

Changing the cushion covers in your home for spring is a lovely, simple way to rejuvenate your house. You will need: A medium sized embroidery hoop, embroidery needles, threads and yarns, tailors chalk, scissors, pencil, paper and some relaxing time for production.


The first step is to learn a few embroidery stitches. This is the only tricky part. It will be worth it I promise, as you will have these stitches under your belt for all your future projects! These are the stitches I used.


Decide on your design and draw it out. Use any patterns or shapes you like as inspiration! Do remember to keep your final design shapes simple and strong to make them effective and easy. Planning out the whole placement of the design on paper first is a good idea as it saves from making mistakes later.


Cutting up your drawings and making a stencil is a great guide to keep to your design. Draw your design with tailors chalk (or pencil) onto the fabric. Tailors chalk is very safe to start designing with as it rubs off! Break it up to get a sharp edge.


Plan what colors and threads you are going to use and have them to hand. Try using a mix of sewing threads, embroidery threads and thin to medium yarns.
Keep your fabric uppermost in your hoop. Secure and slightly taut. Sit down, relax and start stitching! (Optional glass of wine)


Remember to keep everything at the back of your fabric neat and secure. No long trailing threads. This way it will last longer with wear and tear.
By choosing colors that all work together, you can relax while your stitching and simply reach for closest yarn!


Working on outlines can be very successful if you want a quick project. And running stitch is a great effective stitch and not too simple to use for your cushion cover! Mix up your stitches and threads to keep it contemporary and try overlapping your designs.

Above all enjoy relaxing and switching off!

Tea Time Centerpiece

Nearly all my 'Make' posts to date have been centered around the kitchen and food! And here is another kitchen themed 'Make' post, a small centerpiece to rest your favorite tea pot on. When I have friends over for a cup of tea or 2 (or more), I try to make it slightly special. Be that using my favorite teacups and teapot, nice teas or even some flowers! With some felt, threads and your trusty needle this centerpiece can be whipped up for all such occasions. It's made with felt so its very simple and feasible- no hemming or fraying involved!

Felt has a tendency to mainly be available in quite bright colors so I toned this down a little by using more subdued threads and yarns. Pin together 2 layers of felt so its nice and sturdy, you could have a different color for the underside. Draw out your simple shape on one side. I wanted mine to be a flower shape so I used a hoop to trace around for a circle and then drew the petals around that. Using pencil is the easiest option on felt, just keep it light and accurate as you are going to stitch directly on top of it. Then cut out your shape, keeping the 2 layers pinned together.

Try using a mixture of embroidery threads, sewing threads and thin yarns to give it a rich and varied texture. As well as running stitch why not try some other stitches to add to your center piece. These are nice and easy and you can use them for all sorts of projects. Running stitch alone can very effective also!
Even though you won't have the underneath showing it's nice not to have any knots on that side so carefully begin your line of stitches between the layers, near the edge- but not too near! Remember to keep an eye on the underneath/back at all times as tangles can creep up on you.

Give yourself enough thread to reach from one side of the piece to another, a good guide of how much thread should be on your needle is to measure it from the tips of your nicely manicured nails to your elbow. A lot more than this will end in disastrous tangles on the back of your piece. Not fun.

Once you have sewn to the middle of your piece you can then change your stitch. Below is fly stitch with a sewing thread.
If you want to start a line of stitching from the center of the piece you would pass the needle between the layers and work it up to the center, passing though the top fabric at that point. If you are doing this in a tight space, you can place a pencil in between the layers and work the needle up next to it.

Buttonhole stitch. One of my favorites.

For the final step, stitch around the edge of your piece or close to, to prevent the 2 layers of felt being frayed separately and to make the piece more sturdy. I emphasized the 'petals' of my piece around the edges. Use a slightly stronger thread than sewing thread for this final stage.

Now for the best part- tea time.